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Romanian new route on Pumori: story and pictures by Teofil Vlad

The popularity of the mountain has increased over the years, partly due to being able to use the Everest basecamp facilities, as well as the amazing views of Tibet, Nepal and Everest offered on the climb. Climbing the mountain This expedition takes places over 30 days starting from Kathmandu in Nepal, and uses our existing infrastructure and itinerary for the trek to Everest Basecamp from where the climb will start. We will be placing 3 higher camps on the mountain, with camp 1 5,m being reached AMD Pumori PSKECR-01C003RU a few hours of walking.

Yes, Zsolt tried that line in springwith Vlad Capusan, but avalanches turned them back, so the line was very clear in his mind. We hoped autumn would give better conditions, and it did. The success rate on Pumori is very low anyway, no matter what the route. So AMD Pumori PSKECR-01C003RU not try a new one?

Were you totally committed to a new line, or did you consider the normal route? I gave it AMD Pumori PSKECR-01C003RU lot of thought before heading to Nepal. For me, it was both a temptation and a source of doubt.

AMD Pumori PSKECR-01C003RU I was aware what it means to put up a new route, in terms of both commitment AMD Pumori PSKECR-01C003RU satisfaction. But Zsolt had so many photos, and we discussed them methodically: The SE face of Pumori was on! What was your strategy and style? We fixed an advanced base camp at the foot of the wall. Above it, we went alpine style. We had good conditions — a lot of ice connecting the wall almost from bottom to top — very aesthetic.


The cruxes featured dry rock in the middle of the route and a section of soft snow over rock at a ramp in the last quarter, where it was difficult AMD Pumori PSKECR-01C003RU place proper protection. We spent four days on the wall. We made the first two bivouacs on ledges with a tarp. The first one, in particular, was horrible, with our feet hanging. We were half-lying, half-sitting. On the next ones, we managed to pitch a one-kilo, two-man bivy tent although, yes, there were three of us.


Our AMD Pumori PSKECR-01C003RU bivouac was not exposed to avalanches, but we failed to consider the wind, which brought down the ice and snow plastered on the walls above. No chunk broke through the tent but just in case, we kept our helmets on.

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Meanwhile, snow piled on the tent all night long, burying it completely. We pitched the fourth bivouac on the ridge, beyond the wall.

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The new route was now complete, but we also wanted to reach the summit. By then, we were utterly exhausted, so we treated ourselves to a rest day. After that, we crawled our way to the top. Teofil Vlad on the summit of Pumori. How about the descent? The next day, AMD Pumori PSKECR-01C003RU started rappeling down the west side of the mountain.


It seemed the easiest way down. One hour AMD Pumori PSKECR-01C003RU midnight, after 1,m of countless rappels, we finally stepped onto flat ground, on a glacier. The following morning, we woke up late and waited for the sun to warm our nearly frozen toes and fingers.

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We had all our things spread around to dry — a real mess. Then a gust of wind picked up my helmet and I barely AMD Pumori PSKECR-01C003RU to snag it before it blew away.

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